A journey to southern Iraq, to the place where civilisation began: the great Ziggurat of Ur, followed by the Marshes, a water paradise whose people live much as they have for thousands of years.
We start at the Sumerian city of Ur near Nasiriyah, where the ziggurat built by King Ur-Nammu more than four thousand years ago for Nanna, the moon god, still stands. With its massive façade and broad rising stairway, it is one of the most complete ziggurats in the world. We climb the stairs to look out over the ruins of the ancient city, then visit the Royal Cemetery, where excavations in the 1920s uncovered dazzling treasures of gold, lyres and jewellery, and the house known as the House of Abraham, as tradition holds that Ur was the Prophet Abraham's birthplace.
Then we move on to the Marshes, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2016. We board a mashoof, the long traditional wooden boat, and glide through channels of tall reeds and still water, past swimming water buffalo, migrating birds and reed houses built on small islands. We visit a mudhif, the great reed guest house with its remarkable arches, and learn about the life and generous hospitality of the Marsh people.
Lunch is masgouf, Iraq's most famous dish: fish grilled the traditional way beside an open fire. Lunch, the mashoof boat ride and the entrance tickets to the Ziggurat of Ur are all included in the price.
The south is a long way from Baghdad, so we leave very early in the morning and return at night: a long day, but worth every minute. Travel is by private car from and to your accommodation in Baghdad, for one price for your whole group, with a guide who speaks Arabic, English and Russian.